Closing Cost Calculator – Every Fee, Itemized, Before You Sign
The price of the house is not the cheque you write. Between the offer and the keys sits a stack of lender fees, title charges, taxes and prepaids — usually 2% to 5% of the price — that most buyers meet for the first time on a single intimidating document. This page lays every line out in the open, lets you edit each one, and totals the cash you will actually need to close.
The purchase, and every fee on it
Advanced options — every fee line: lender, title, taxes, prepaids and credits
Every fee line is already included in the result with its default values — open Advanced options to change them.
🔒 Everything is calculated in your browser — your numbers never leave your device.
Your closing bill, line by line
The itemized breakdown
Cash to close — the cheque you actually write
The 2–5% rule of thumb, checked
The old rule says a financed purchase usually lands between 2% and 5% of the price in closing costs — $8,000 to $20,000 on a $400,000 home. Your estimate is $13,089.79, which is 3.27% of the price: comfortably inside the band. Under 2% usually means a lender credit or a low-fee state is doing you a favour; over 5% usually means heavy transfer taxes, or discount points, have crept into the loan.
This is a cash purchase — no mortgage
The loan-based lines have fallen to $0 on their own: there is no origination fee and no prepaid interest when there is no loan. The lender-only charges still listed above — underwriting, appraisal, credit report and the lender title policy — would normally disappear on a cash deal too, so set any that do not apply to you to 0. What genuinely remains is the title work, the recording, the transfer taxes and your insurance and tax prepayments.
Reading this bill honestly
On a $400,000 purchase with $80,000 down, the fees, taxes and prepaids come to $13,089.79 — 3.27% of the price — and the cash you hand over at closing is $93,089.79 once the down payment and any credits are counted. The biggest single line is the loan origination fee at $3,200.00, followed by transfer taxes at $2,000.00. Both deserve a question before you sign: lender charges are sometimes negotiable, and government charges should match their published schedule to the cent.
Closing costs are not the amount of cash you need. Buyers who budget for the fees alone get a nasty surprise: the closing table wants the down payment too. That is why this page always shows both numbers — the cost of the transaction, and the cash to close.
- Closing costs usually run 2–5% of the price — the default $400,000 purchase works out at $13,089.79, or 3.27%.
- Cash to close is three different kinds of money: down payment (equity) + closing costs (the bill) − credits, with prepaids a third kind.
- Check every line against the Loan Estimate and the Closing Disclosure; the defaults here are typical mid-range figures, nothing more.
Where the cash actually goes
One bar, your whole closing day. The down payment dwarfs everything else — which is exactly why the fees hide so well. Shrink the down payment and watch the fee groups grow teeth: on a 10% down purchase the same costs would be a far bigger share of the cash you bring.
Lender fees
The price of the loan itself: originating it, underwriting it, valuing the house and pulling your credit. This is the group your lender controls — and the group most open to comparison shopping.
Title and settlement
Proving the seller owns what they are selling, insuring that proof, and paying the people who run the closing table. Rates are regulated in some states and shoppable in others.
Government
Transfer taxes and recording charges, set by your state, county or city. Nobody negotiates these; the only check is that they match the published schedule.
Prepaids and escrows
Not really fees at all — your own insurance and taxes, paid early and held in escrow. The money is still yours in spirit, but it has to be in the room on closing day.
How it works, in 3 steps
Set the price and the down payment
Those two numbers drive everything: the loan is whatever is left, the percentage-based fees scale off the price and the loan, and the cash-to-close figure is built from them. On the default $400,000 purchase with 20% down, the loan is $320,000.
Walk the fee list, line by line
The defaults are typical mid-range figures, nothing more — every line is editable. When your lender’s Loan Estimate arrives, replace the defaults with its numbers one by one and watch the total move. Lines your deal does not have can simply be set to 0.
Read the cash to close — and the gauge
Closing costs alone are not the cash you need; the down payment rides along. The cash-to-close box adds them together, subtracts any seller or lender credits, and the 2–5% gauge tells you at a glance whether your fee stack is lean, normal or heavy for the price.
How each line is worked out
The default, worked through. A $400,000 home, $80,000 down, so a $320,000 loan. The lender group: origination at 1% of the loan is $3,200.00, plus $1,200.00 underwriting, a $400.00 appraisal and a $60.00 credit report — $4,860.00 all in. Title and settlement: an $800.00 search, lender title insurance at 0.3% of the price ($1,200.00), a $750.00 attorney fee and $125.00 of recording — $2,875.00. Transfer taxes at 0.5% of the price add $2,000.00. The prepaids: a year of homeowner insurance at 0.35% of the price is $1,400.00, three months of property tax escrow at 1.1% a year is $1,100.00, and 15 days of prepaid interest at 6.5% on the loan — $320,000 × 6.5% × 15 ÷ 365 — is $854.79. Stack them: $13,089.79 of closing costs, 3.27% of the price, and $80,000 + $13,089.79 = $93,089.79 of cash to close.
Why the per-diem line surprises people. You owe interest on the loan from the day it funds, but your first regular payment is a month or more away. The lender collects the in-between days at closing, one day at a time. Close on the 16th and roughly 15 days are due — $854.79 on this loan. Close on the 28th instead and only a couple of days are due, a few hundred dollars less; close early in the month and the line grows. It is the one closing cost your calendar controls.
Credits, worked through. A seller who agrees to a $5,000 credit and a lender offering $1,500 toward costs do not change the bill — $13,089.79 is still the bill — they change who pays it. Your cash to close falls to $80,000 + $13,089.79 − $6,500 = $86,589.79. Notice the down payment never shrinks: credits eat into the costs first, and lenders limit how large a seller credit can be relative to the price and your down payment.
Deep dives
You get the numbers twice — use both times. Federal rules require your lender to give you a Loan Estimate within three business days of your application, listing the expected closing costs in standard sections, and a Closing Disclosure at least three business days before closing, listing them again. Lenders who send them late, or never, are breaking rules you can enforce. The estimate is not a courtesy document; it is a regulated one, and this calculator is the quickest way to sanity-check it — type its lines in and compare totals.
Some fees are not allowed to drift. The rules sort closing costs into buckets. A lender’s own charges and the services it requires from its own providers generally cannot increase at closing. Charges for services you can shop for, from a provider you pick, sit in a middle bucket where the total can rise only within a limited tolerance. Taxes, recording charges and prepaid interest can move freely — which is another reason the per-diem line depends on your closing date. If a figure on your final disclosure has jumped beyond what the rules allow, you are entitled to ask why, and in many cases to be refunded the excess.
The three-day window is your friend. The gap between the Closing Disclosure arriving and the closing itself exists so you can compare it, line by line, with the Loan Estimate you were given at the start. Bring both documents, put the disclosure’s lines into this page, and check the total and the cash to close against what you were quoted. Surprises found in that window are negotiable; surprises found at the closing table mostly are not.
Transfer taxes are the biggest swing. The tax on changing the deed is set locally, and it ranges wildly: some states charge no transfer tax at all, while others — and some cities on top of them — take more than 1% of the price. On a $400,000 home that is the difference between $0 and well over $4,000 for the exact same transaction. Who pays is local custom too: in many markets the seller covers it, in others the buyer, in others it is split, which is why the line on this page defaults to the buyer’s side but sits there ready to be zeroed.
Title insurance is regulated — or not. In some states the price of a title policy is set by the state or filed by rating bureaus, so shopping changes little. In others the premium is negotiable and quotes for identical cover can differ by hundreds of dollars. Either way, notice there are two policies in most financed purchases: the lender’s policy, which the buyer usually pays for and which protects only the lender, and an owner’s policy protecting you — worth asking about while you are at the table, because the pair is usually cheaper bought together.
Attorney states and escrow states close differently. Some states require a lawyer to run the closing; others use title or escrow companies, and the fees follow the custom. None of this is good or bad on its own — it just means a national average is a rough coat for a local bill. That is the honest reason every line on this page is editable: the defaults show you the shape of a typical bill, and your state, county and lender fill in the truth.
A second closing, priced line by line
The default closing on this page is a $400,000 home with $80,000 down: $13,089.79 of closing costs, 3.27% of the price, and $93,089.79 of cash to close. The table below prices the same fee structure on a $500,000 home with the same $80,000 down — the variant the calculator itself produces — so you can see which lines move with the price, which move with the loan, and which do not move at all. Every figure in the $500,000 column reconciles to the calculator’s own total of $15,781.92.
| Line | $400,000 home, $80,000 down | $500,000 home, $80,000 down | Moves with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loan origination (1% of loan) | $3,200.00 | $4,200.00 | Loan size |
| Underwriting, appraisal, credit report | $1,660.00 | $1,660.00 | Neither — fixed fees |
| Title search, title insurance, attorney, recording | $2,875.00 | $3,175.00 | Mostly price (title insurance) |
| Transfer taxes (0.5% of price) | $2,000.00 | $2,500.00 | Price |
| Prepaids: insurance, tax escrow, per-diem interest | $3,354.79 | $4,246.92 | Price, loan and closing date |
| Total closing costs | $13,089.79 | $15,781.92 | — |
| Cash to close (down + costs) | $93,089.79 | $95,781.92 | — |
Read the pattern, not just the totals. The fixed fees — underwriting $1,200.00, appraisal $400.00, credit report $60.00 — do not move at all between the two purchases; on a larger purchase they shrink as a share of the bill, which is why closing costs fall as a percentage even as they rise in dollars (3.27% of $400,000 against 3.16% of $500,000). The loan-linked lines move with the loan: origination rises from $3,200.00 to $4,200.00 because the loan rises from $320,000 to $420,000, and per-diem interest rises from $854.79 to $1,121.92 because 15 days of interest on a bigger loan costs more ($420,000 × 6.5% × 15 ÷ 365). The price-linked lines move with the price: title insurance at 0.3% rises from $1,200.00 to $1,500.00, transfer taxes at 0.5% from $2,000.00 to $2,500.00, insurance prepaids at 0.35% of price from $1,400.00 to $1,750.00, and tax escrow at 1.1% a year for three months from $1,100.00 to $1,375.00.
The cash-to-close comparison holds the real surprise. The $500,000 buyer hands over only $2,692.13 more cash at closing than the $400,000 buyer ($95,781.92 against $93,089.79), even though the home costs $100,000 more — because the down payment is the same $80,000 in both cases and the extra $100,000 is almost entirely borrowed. That is leverage doing exactly what leverage does: it moves the price without moving the cash. It also means the cash-to-close figure must never be mistaken for the cost of the home, or for the cost of the borrowing — the borrowed $100,000 still has to be repaid, with interest, over the life of the loan, and the closing bill is only the first day’s accounting for it.
Three levers that move the bill
Most closing lines are what they are. Three levers genuinely move the bill, and each works differently. The first is the down payment, because it moves the loan-linked lines. Raise the down payment on the $400,000 home from $80,000 to $160,000 and the calculator’s own answer is: total closing costs fall from $13,089.79 to $12,076.10, 3.02% of the price, and cash to close rises to $172,076.10. The saving of $1,013.69 comes from exactly two lines — origination falls from $3,200.00 to $2,400.00 as the loan falls from $320,000 to $240,000, and per-diem interest falls from $854.79 to $641.10 on the smaller loan — while every price-linked line stands still. A bigger down payment saves closing costs only where the costs follow the loan; it never saves a dollar of transfer tax or title insurance, which follow the price.
The second lever is the closing date, because it moves the per-diem line and only that line. You owe interest on the loan from the day it funds, but your first regular payment is a month or more away, and the lender collects the in-between days at closing, one day at a time. On the default loan, 15 days cost $854.79. Close on the 28th instead and only a couple of days are due, a few hundred dollars less; close early in the month and the line grows. It is the one closing cost your calendar controls, and on a large loan the choice of week can be worth more than haggling over a fixed fee. Escrow months can shift with the date too, so the date should be chosen with the whole prepaid group in view, not the per-diem line alone.
The third lever is credits, because credits change who pays without changing the bill. A seller who agrees to a $5,000 credit and a lender offering $1,500 toward costs leave the $13,089.79 bill exactly where it was — but cash to close falls to $80,000 + $13,089.79 − $6,500 = $86,589.79. Notice the down payment never shrinks: credits eat into the costs first, and lenders limit how large a seller credit can be relative to the price and the down payment. Negotiating a credit is therefore negotiating cash at closing, not negotiating the price — and a credit that exceeds the lender’s limit will be trimmed back whether the contract mentions it or not, so the limit should be confirmed before the credit is promised.
Cash to close is three things, not one
The most useful sentence on this page is also the easiest to misread: cash to close = down payment + closing costs − credits. Three different kinds of money are being added together, and keeping them separate prevents the two most common closing-day surprises. The down payment is equity — money that becomes your ownership in the home from the first day, and the only part of the cash that is not a cost at all. The closing costs are the bill — lender fees, title and settlement, transfer taxes — money that pays for the transaction itself and never comes back. The prepaids are the third kind, and they are neither: homeowner’s insurance for a year, property tax escrow for three months, and per-diem interest are money paid forward for things you would owe anyway — the insurance year, the tax bill, the interest days — collected early so the lender knows they will be paid.
That distinction is why prepaids feel like fees but are not. The $1,400.00 of insurance prepaid on the default purchase buys a year of cover you need regardless; the $1,100.00 of tax escrow sits in an account that pays your tax bill when it falls due; the $854.79 of per-diem interest is interest on days you actually borrowed the money. Resenting them as fees misunderstands them, but so does ignoring them: they are cash due on the day, in full, whether or not they feel like costs. A buyer who budgets for “fees” and forgets prepaids arrives at closing short by exactly the prepaid group — on this default, $3,354.79 short — and no lender will waive a prepaid because it was not expected.
Finally, remember what cash to close does not include: the monthly payment after closing, which begins a month or more later and continues for the life of the loan, and everything outside this page’s lines — moving costs, immediate repairs, the reserves a lender may require you to hold after closing. The closing bill is the price of the day the keys change hands. The loan is the price of every month after it. Both deserve a budget, and only the first is due on the day.
Checks before closing day
1. Has every line been checked against the Loan Estimate? Federal rules require your lender to give you a Loan Estimate within three business days of application, and a Closing Disclosure before closing. The page’s deep dive names both documents as the ones that matter: compare any real offer against them, line by line, before you sign. A line that moved since the estimate deserves a question, not a signature.
2. Are the defaults still defaults? The fee lines on this page are typical mid-range values, shown only so the page starts somewhere honest. Real closing costs differ by state, county, lender and loan program: transfer taxes, title premiums and recording charges follow local schedules, lender fees follow your lender, and prepaid amounts follow your closing date and tax calendar. Replace every default with your lender’s figure before relying on the total.
3. Is the closing date chosen, not accidental? The per-diem line follows the funding date day by day. Pick the date with the prepaid group in view, confirm the day count with the lender, and remember that a slipped closing can move both the per-diem days and the escrow months.
4. Is this an estimate, or a quote? This page is an estimate — not a quote, a Loan Estimate or financial advice. Your lender’s Loan Estimate and Closing Disclosure are the documents that count. The price is the headline; the cash to close is the story, and this page shows you both — but only the lender’s documents close the sale.
The escrow cushion, and the monthly math behind it
Prepaids are not fees, but the escrow account that collects them has a rule of its own: the cushion. After closing, the lender collects one twelfth of the annual property tax and insurance bills each month, and federal rules allow the lender to hold a cushion of up to two months of escrow payments on top of the expected balance, so the account never runs dry when a bill arrives early. On a home with $6,000 of annual taxes and $1,800 of annual insurance, the monthly escrow collection is $650, and the cushion can add up to $1,300 to the amount collected at closing, on top of the months of taxes and insurance prepaid from closing day to the next bill.
The cushion is the part of cash to close that surprises buyers most, because it is real money that is neither a fee nor a prepayment of a bill that is due: it is a buffer that stays in the account and comes back, in effect, through lower monthly collections later or at payoff. Ask the lender for the initial escrow statement before closing, which must show every deposit, every expected payment and the cushion, and compare it with the Loan Estimate. A cushion above two months, or a deposit that does not match the statement, is an error to raise before signing, not after.
Seller concessions and lender credits: who is really paying
Two mechanisms move costs between the parties without changing the price, and both have caps. A seller concession is an amount the seller agrees to pay toward the buyer’s closing costs, and the cap depends on the loan type and the down payment: for a conventional loan the cap is 3 percent of the price with less than 10 percent down, 6 percent with 10 to 25 percent down, and 9 percent above 25 percent down, while FHA loans cap concessions at 6 percent and VA loans at 4 percent plus reasonable and customary costs. A concession above the cap does not vanish: the excess is disallowed, and the buyer must cover it in cash or renegotiate.
A lender credit works the other way: the lender pays part of the closing costs in exchange for a higher interest rate. The trade is permanent, because the higher rate lasts for the life of the loan while the credit is a one-time payment, so a credit that covers $3,000 of costs at a rate one eighth of a point higher costs far more than $3,000 over a 30-year loan if the borrower never refinances. Compare credits by the break-even: the credit divided by the extra monthly payment. If the borrower expects to refinance or move before the break-even, the credit wins; if not, paying the costs in cash usually wins. The companion guide on state variation explains how local custom decides which of these mechanisms a market expects.
Closing cost questions, answered
How much are closing costs on a $400,000 home?
With typical mid-range fees, about $13,090 — this page’s default works it out line by line to $13,089.79, which is 3.27% of the price. That sits inside the usual 2% to 5% band for a financed purchase, which on $400,000 means anything from $8,000 to $20,000 depending on your state, your lender and how the prepaids fall. A cash purchase with the same house drops the lender charges and lands nearer $9,035 of costs, mostly title work, transfer taxes and prepayments.
What is cash to close, and how is it different from closing costs?
Closing costs are the price of the transaction — the fees, taxes and prepaids. Cash to close is the money you must actually bring: the down payment plus the closing costs, minus any credits. On the default purchase here that is $80,000 + $13,089.79 = $93,089.79. The two figures answer different questions: closing costs tell you what the deal costs, cash to close tells you whether your bank account survives it. Your Closing Disclosure has a cash-to-close line of its own, calculated exactly this way.
Who pays closing costs — the buyer or the seller?
Both, for their own side of the deal. The defaults on this page are the buyer’s costs: the lender fees, the title work for the loan, and the buyer’s prepaids. Sellers have their own bill — typically the agent commissions, their share of taxes, and in many markets the transfer tax. On top of that, a seller can agree to a credit toward the buyer’s costs as part of the negotiation; enter it in the seller credit field and it comes straight off your cash to close. Lenders cap how big that credit can be, based on the loan type and your down payment.
Which closing costs can I shop for or negotiate?
More than most buyers realise. Your lender must tell you which services you are allowed to shop for — typically the title search, the title insurance, the attorney or settlement agent, and sometimes the survey and pest inspection — and quotes for those genuinely differ. The lender’s own charges, like the origination and underwriting fees, are theirs to set, but they are not carved in stone either: a competing lender’s estimate is a legitimate negotiating tool. The lines you cannot move are the government’s — transfer taxes, recording fees and your tax and insurance escrows follow schedules, not negotiations.
Why are insurance and property taxes in my closing costs at all?
Because they are not fees — they are your own bills, collected early. Lenders require the first year of homeowner insurance to be paid at closing so the house is covered from day one; here that is 12 months at 0.35% of the price, or $1,400. They also seed your escrow account with a few months of property tax — three months at a 1.1% yearly rate is $1,100 here — so there is a cushion when the tax bill lands. The money is not gone, it is prepaid and held for you, but it still has to be in the room on closing day, which is why it belongs in any honest cash-to-close figure.
Can closing costs be rolled into the loan?
Sometimes, in two different ways. A lender credit does it invisibly: the lender pays some of your costs in exchange for a slightly higher interest rate, so the costs are effectively financed over the life of the loan — cheap now, dearer later. On some loans, especially refinances and certain loan programs, the costs can be added to the loan balance directly where the rules allow it. Either way, run both versions through this page: once with the costs in cash, once with a lender credit entered and the rate raised. The totals will tell you what the convenience actually costs.
Why do prepaids feel like fees but are not?
Because they are collected at the same table, on the same day, in the same stack of paper — but they pay for things you would owe anyway. The $1,400.00 of homeowner’s insurance prepaid on this page’s default buys a year of cover the home needs regardless; the $1,100.00 of tax escrow sits in an account that pays your property tax bill when it falls due; the $854.79 of per-diem interest is interest on days you actually borrowed the money. Lender fees, title charges and transfer taxes pay for the transaction itself and never come back. Prepaids are money paid forward, not money spent on the deal — and that is why they still hurt if you did not budget for them: they are cash due on the day, in full, whether or not they feel like costs.
Does a bigger down payment cut closing costs?
Only where the costs follow the loan. Raise the down payment on the $400,000 default from $80,000 to $160,000 and the calculator’s own answer is: total closing costs fall from $13,089.79 to $12,076.10, a saving of $1,013.69 — and every dollar of it comes from two loan-linked lines, origination falling from $3,200.00 to $2,400.00 and per-diem interest from $854.79 to $641.10. Transfer taxes, title insurance, attorney and recording fees do not move at all, because they follow the price, not the loan. Meanwhile cash to close rises to $172,076.10, because the bigger down payment itself is cash. A bigger down payment saves a little on closing costs and costs a lot more cash on the day — both facts belong in the same decision.
What if closing slips to next month?
Three things move, and none of them is the price. First, the per-diem interest line is recounted for the new funding date — a few hundred dollars either way on a loan this size, since each day costs the loan × rate ÷ 365. Second, the escrow months can shift with the tax calendar, changing how many months of property tax are collected upfront. Third, and most seriously, a slipped closing can run past a rate lock’s expiry, which is a lender term this page does not model and which can reprice the loan itself. A slip of days is a prepaid adjustment; a slip past the lock is a new negotiation. Confirm the lock expiry in writing whenever a closing date moves, and re-run every line on this page against the new date before the new closing day arrives.
Are closing costs tax-deductible?
Some closing items may be, and some never are — and this page does not model tax at all, so treat any deduction claim as a question for a tax professional, not a figure from this calculator. As a general matter, prepaid interest (including per-diem interest and any points paid to buy the rate down) is the category most often deductible, subject to the rules that apply in the year of purchase, while lender fees, title charges, transfer taxes and insurance prepaids are generally treated as part of the cost of acquiring the home rather than as deductible expenses. The distinction turns on your filing situation and on rules that change, so keep the Closing Disclosure — it itemises every line — and let a qualified tax professional sort deductible from capitalised before you file.
Who chooses the title company, and can I shop for one?
In most states the buyer or the seller can choose the title company, and local custom often decides which side picks, so ask early rather than assuming. Title services are among the shoppable items on the Loan Estimate, and quotes for the title search, the settlement fee and the owner’s policy can differ by hundreds of dollars between providers. Get at least two quotes, and compare the full bundle, not a single line.
What is a seller concession, and what are the limits?
A seller concession is an amount the seller agrees to contribute toward the buyer’s closing costs. The caps are 3, 6 or 9 percent of the price for a conventional loan depending on the down payment band, 6 percent for FHA and 4 percent for VA plus reasonable and customary costs. Anything above the cap is disallowed, so the buyer must cover the excess in cash or renegotiate the price or the concession.
Is a lender credit free money?
No. A lender credit pays part of the closing costs in exchange for a higher interest rate, and the higher rate lasts for the life of the loan. Compare the credit with the extra monthly payment: if the borrower refinances or moves before the break-even point, the credit wins, and if not, paying the costs in cash usually costs less overall. Ask the lender to quote the same loan with and without the credit, side by side.
Do cash buyers pay closing costs?
Yes, but fewer of them. A cash purchase has no loan origination fee, no appraisal required by a lender, no prepaid interest and no lender-required escrows, which removes several of the largest buyer lines. The buyer still pays for the title search and owner’s policy, recording fees, transfer taxes where they apply, inspection and attorney fees, and their share of prorated taxes. The seller’s side changes little: commissions and transfer taxes remain.
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An estimate — not a quote, a Loan Estimate or financial advice.
Every figure on this page is arithmetic on the price, down payment, rate and fee lines you see — the defaults are typical mid-range values, shown only so the page starts somewhere honest. Real closing costs differ by state, county, lender and loan program: transfer taxes, title premiums and recording charges follow local schedules, lender fees follow your lender, and prepaid amounts follow your closing date and tax calendar. Your lender’s Loan Estimate and Closing Disclosure are the documents that count. Compare any real offer against them, line by line, before you sign.
The price is the headline. The cash to close is the story. This page shows you both.
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